What to Eat in Edinburgh (And Where We Actually Loved It)
We’ll be honest—before arriving in Edinburgh, food wasn’t the main thing we were excited about.
That changed pretty quickly.
Somewhere between our first proper Scottish breakfast and a late-night dessert we definitely didn’t need, we realised the food scene here is way better (and more interesting) than people give it credit for.
If you’re heading to Edinburgh, here’s what we think you should try—along with places we genuinely enjoyed, not just ones that look good on a list.
Haggis (You Have to Try It at Least Once)
We went in a bit sceptical.
But haggis—when it’s done well—is actually rich, savoury, and way more comforting than expected. It’s usually served with “neeps and tatties” (turnips and potatoes), and honestly, it just works.
Where we had it:
Makars Mash Bar
This place felt relaxed, no pressure, and perfect for trying haggis without overthinking it. You can mix and match with different mashes and sauces, which made it feel less intimidating and more fun.
Full Scottish Breakfast
This is not a light start to the day.
We’re talking eggs, sausage, bacon, black pudding, beans, toast—the whole situation. It’s the kind of breakfast that keeps you full well into the afternoon.
Where we had it:
The Edinburgh Larder
It felt fresh, high quality, and not overly greasy like some big breakfasts can be. A really solid way to start a day of walking.
Fish and Chips (Done Properly)
Yes, it’s a classic—but there’s a difference between average and really good fish and chips.
We found ourselves craving it more than once.
Where we had it:
The Fishmarket (Newhaven)
Sitting near the water with fresh, crispy fish just hits differently. It felt simple but done right—and that’s all you really want.
Scotch Pie (Quick, Local, Underrated)
This one surprised us.
It’s a small, savoury meat pie—nothing fancy—but perfect when you want something quick while exploring.
Where we had it:
Piemaker (near the Royal Mile)
We popped in without much expectation and ended up going back again. Cheap, warm, and exactly what you need on a cold day.
Cullen Skink (Scottish Comfort in a Bowl)
We didn’t even know what this was before the trip.
It’s a smoky fish soup with potatoes and cream—and somehow feels both light and hearty at the same time.
Where we had it:
The Scran & Scallie
This place had a more elevated feel, but still relaxed. The Cullen skink here felt like proper comfort food, especially after a long day out.
Steak Pie (Hearty and Worth It)
If you’re hungry—this is the move.
Rich gravy, tender meat, flaky pastry… it’s not subtle, but that’s kind of the point.
Where we had it:
The Sheep Heid Inn
One of the oldest pubs in Scotland, and it really feels like it. The food matched the setting—warm, traditional, and satisfying.
Whisky (Not Food, But It Counts)
Even if you’re not a big whisky person, it’s part of the experience here.
We didn’t expect to enjoy it as much as we did—but learning about it made a difference.
Where we tried it:
The Scotch Whisky Experience
It felt accessible, not intimidating, and a good introduction if you don’t know where to start.
Sticky Toffee Pudding (Don’t Skip Dessert)
This ended up being one of our favourite things we ate.
Warm sponge, rich toffee sauce, usually with ice cream—it’s simple but done so well.
Where we had it:
The Witchery by the Castle
A bit more on the indulgent side, but the setting alone makes it worth it. This felt like a proper “treat yourself” moment.
Seafood in Leith
We didn’t expect to find some of our best meals outside the city centre—but Leith delivered.
Fresh seafood, relaxed atmosphere, and a slightly more local vibe.
Where we went:
The Ship on the Shore
It felt lively without being overwhelming, and the seafood was genuinely fresh. Great spot for a slower evening.
What We Took Away
Edinburgh’s food scene isn’t about being flashy.
It’s about:
- Comfort food done really well
- Local flavours that feel authentic
- And places that have character, not just good reviews
If we’re being honest, some of our favourite meals weren’t planned—they just happened when we followed a recommendation or walked into somewhere that felt right.
Final Tip from Us
Try the traditional stuff—even if you’re unsure.
We almost skipped a few of these, and they ended up being highlights.
If you’re heading to Edinburgh, go hungry—and stay curious.
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